Nistem zai ge!

A relative wants to prepare fish molho, so off we go early in the morning to the 'wholesale' fish market at Margao. It's a messy place, with melted ice creating a mucky playground. But oh, the heavenly smell of fish!

Come one, come all, bid what ye may! The wholesaler (or is it wholeseller!) sits with his wad of notes and panttes of sardines as watching fisherwomen contemplate a deal.

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Ice slabs are offloaded. They will provide 'open' refrigeration for the baskets of fish. Dig the cool rusted cycle with its classic green striped bag.

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What should I buy...that chonok looks good, but yesterday's stock didn't move fast enough...maybe I'll stick to bangdulleo today.

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Solefish, kingfish, swordfish and the works! A young buyer weighs the options.

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You can have your fish and chop it too. This skillful lad performs his 'choppery' artfully, it's a joy to watch. The ground below is not so aesthetically pleasing, the fish entrails are dropped there. But the cats that abound do not complain.

Sisters in arms. A couple of fish 'coolies' clown around. Mostly from the laamani tribe, these colourfully clad women carry fish baskets over long distances, unmindful of the chilly ice melting down their shoulders.